Peter M. Gianotti

May 15, 2005

Waters Crest Winery, one of Long Island's younger producers, makes a vintage statement in red and white.

Jim Waters' most impressive win ne currently is a rich 2003 Waters Crest Cabernet Franc. The deep-red wine is 100 percent cabernet franc, made with free-run juice. There are currant notes, hints of both chocolate and spice, and vivid varietal character. A bottle is about $30.

The 2003 Waters Crest Merlot is a bit tight now, but should open in a few months. The balanced wine has suggestions of raspberry and blueberry. About $18. Also available is the fruity, easily enjoyed 2002 Waters Crest Merlot. About $16.

Citrus notes play in the 2003 Waters Crest Riesling, a versatile and satisf ying white that pairs neatly with light pork and chicken dishes, and Asian fare. A bottle: about $17. The 2004 Waters Crest Gewurztraminer, dry and lightly floral, is an ideal match for spicy cuisines, especially Asian. About $19 for a bottle.